I am working on fixing up a 1973 Super I got for $800.00 I recently
put disks on all 4's. I used the EMPI kits from www.actionimport.com.
I would just like to put in a plug for these guy's. They have
reasonable prices although sometimes not the absolute cheapest
you can find but their service in WAY above normal. The first
thing I ever ordered from them was a 2 tip EMPI extractor exhaust.
It arrived at my house about the next day without paying for special
shipping! That's California to Texas in one day, not too bad.
Anyway my question is this I put the front and rear EMPI disk
kits on and also installed a new stock master cylinder. The car
stops good but there is still a lot of pedal play. The pedal goes
halfway to the floor before it starts stopping. It had the same
free play with the drums I replaced which were in decent shape.
I even took it to a brake shop and had them bleed the brakes again
just to be sure but I still have the same pedal "slack".
Is this normal? If not how do I get rid of it? My last VW was
a "71 Squareback about 5 years ago and I don't remember it
having this much play.
I've heard good things about Action Import, and I'll make sure
that I spread the word about the good service that you got. As
far as your brakes go, I've never driven a Bug that has had the
disc conversion done. Although that pedal does seem low and it
looks as though you've checked the common problem areas. Did the
kit you got have a master cylinder that was specific to disc brakes
included or was it designed to work with a stock master cylinder?
I have heard of defective new master cylinders in the past before
too. I've also heard that most suppliers recommend changes the
rubber flex lines to stainless if you have the old original ones
on there. If these suggestions don't help you might try asking
the same question in our forum.
is no real way to restore a transmission or engine. That term is
used mostly with regards to restoring an entire vehicle, to make
it as new again. The engine and transmission would either have been
rebuilt or replaced with new or remanufactured units. "Rebuilt"
in most cases would mean that a shop would disassemble them, and
then replace defective or worn parts. "Remanufactured"
means that a company that specializes in rebuilding VW engines and
transmissions has rebuilt them to factory specification. In most
cases when a remanufactured unit is installed the old ones are removed
and returned to be rebuilt for the next purchaser. Look for the
engine and transmission to be very clean, perhaps painted or sandblasted
with no oil leaks. Super Beetle engines are like other engines and
the obvious things to wear would be the piston rings, cylinders,
bearings, etc. Remember If an engine is maintained properly you
shouldn't have to worry these items for a long time.
I enjoyed your story online, and have been looking for a little
advice from somebody who knows their way around a Super Beetle.
In this case, a 1979 convertible. My girlfriend's lease on her
New Beetle recently ended and she is in the market for a vintage
Super Beetle Convertible. I am going to look at a '79 on Saturday
and my understanding is that the engine and possibly the transmission
have been remanufactured/restored. The Beetle supposedly has new
paint, all new upholstery, a new convertible top, new wheels and
a number of other elements. However, there was a bit of a language
barrier and I'm not sure whether the engine was actually remanufactured...
or if certain parts have just been replaced. Unfortunately I know
very little about engines and have been trying to do a quick study.
Can you tell me what I should be looking for? Or more specifically,
how will I know at a glance if an engine has been rebuilt? If
receipts are available, what are the wearing parts on a Super
Beetle engine that should have been replaced? Are there any other
"problem" areas on a Super Beetle that I should be looking
at before I decide to buy?
Any advice you can give us would be wonderful,
As far as what to look for in a purchase, we have a page in the
Tech section about buying a used Beetle. Click "Tech"
then "Restoration Corner" and select number 9.
a 74 Super Beetle and I am in the process of restoring it. The
only thing about this Beetle is that I can not get the shimmy
out of the front end. I notice by putting bigger tires, it helped
a little bit. But I like the low profile tires on the front. I
have heard that this is a common occurrence with Super Beetles.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
San Antonio, TX
The 'Super Beetle Shimmy' is quite common.
My 1975 Super Beetle also suffered from this problem. I contacted
Topline Parts (www.toplineparts.com)
and ordered their urethane bushing kit for my car. After the installation
the shimmy that occurs between 45-55 mph was gone. You can read
my review of their product in the Reviews section of the site
Note: While installing the bushing kit, have a good look around
to make sure that all other suspension parts are in good shape
and not worn.
I got this month's newsletter
and as usual I read every article. I just finished restoring a beautiful
'78 Champaign Edition II 'Vert. The only thing not working is the
clock. Any leads on where I might ship it off to have it fixed?
Try 'The Clock Works'
www.clockwks.com. Jerry has repaired many VW clocks over the
years and charges about $60.00 for an overhaul.
Please help me. I know
this is not Super Beetle stuff but I'm desperate. I have a 1982
Mexican made beetle with no bumpers. Question, are there bumpers
from any model year (pre 1982) that will bolt on, or fit with slight
you go to the Btlmex site www.btlmex.com
they list front and rear bumpers that fit the Mexican Beetle for
about $69.00 each. These are the paintable type and might require
you to purchase the brackets to make them fit. Be sure to confirm
with them that they will fit your Beetle before ordering.
for a great newsletter. Like everyone who is our age (over 50) and
who has ever owned a VW growing up yearns someday to own one again,
I believe. Now that our kids are gone and married, my wife and I found
and bought a '74 Sun Bug out of Atlanta which we didn't knew existed
until we saw a feature article on one in the March 1998 edition of
VW Trends. After driving it for two years, we took it down and had
it restored to stock including finding the proper radio from a '74
VW sales brochure, the special gear shift knob on eBay, the plastic
engine cover Sun Bug logo for a collector here in Dalton GA; and just
recently, the special Sun Bug striping for the sides. It has won a
number of first place awards in the Super Beetle stock class at local
SE VW club shows over the last two years, so we decided to find another
special edition. I opened one of my many VW hard cover books, this
one called Volkswagen Chronicle, authored by Graham Robson and the
Auto editors of Consumer Guide(R), and on page 87 there was this full
page picture of a 1978 Champagne Edition II and said that I had to
find one. We did on eBay and I bought it for my wife for her birthday
last September. After driving it over the winter, we took it down
beginning in February and had it restored just finishing it for her
birthday this September. We showed it at the big SE show held just
recently in Sevierville, TN in October. We drove it up over the Smokies
to get their and she won two first place awards "right out of
the gate"--Convertible Stock, all years; and Super Beetle Stock.
Good thing didn't run against with the Sun Bug.
Why am I telling you all this. I thought maybe Dan would like pictures
for his new web page or you for spotlighting. Secondly, I am looking
for another special edition since I have three sons and only two VW's
at present. I wanted to tell Dan that I stumbled on a SE Super Beetle
web site the same evening I found your web site using Google's search
engine. Dan might want to check out this special edition web site.
It is: www.sebeetles.com.
And if you or Dan are interested, I could send pictures of each vehicle.
My good friend Phillip Colquette who I met at previous SE meets just
added his Sun Bug (in disguise) and it was Tony Towny, who also has
a Sun Bug on this same web page, who took a digital picture of his
striping and sent to me so I could arrange with ActionGrafix in AZ
to make a set. They even made a facsimile front license plate for
the Champaign Edition II to match the one on the Special Edition web
I've talked enough like all who have a VW story or two, but again,
the articles in the newsletters are great. Keep it up.
I'll pass your message about the SE Beetle
web site along to Dan. There is a link at the bottom of each Spotlight
so you can contact the owner yourself. I met the owner of the SE Beetle
site while I was on holiday in the UK, and Colin is a special edition
fan like you and I. We'd love to see pictures of your Beetles at the
site and could talk about putting them in the Spotlight too.
I just wanted
to say hi and offer my thanks for such a great site! I love the format,
obviously some of the technologies are mind-blowing
stories are my favorite. I enjoy the stories of the Bugs and their
owners more than anything else.
bookmarked the site, Ill certainly be back it has been
a great hour plowing around here.
you for all your kind words. I do put a lot of work into this site
because of my love for the air-cooled Beetle. Comments like yours
make it all worthwhile.
I am restoring a 74 Super Beetle, that needs all 4 fenders. My question
is, can I use 73 fenders and bumper brackets with my 74 bumpers. I
would like to eliminate the bumper shocks, and go with the narrow
style brackets. From what I've seen the fenders are 74 only. I am
wondering if the bumper brackets are the only deference.
We asked VW expert John Spironello from John's
Bug Shop your question, and this is what he told us...
"Sounds a little confusing but I'll
try to answer. In order to put 73 style fenders and bumper brackets
on the 74, and use the 74 and later style bumpers would require you
first to change the bumper bracket mounts where the bumper bracket
attaches to the body. The 74 style shock absorber mounting brackets
on the car would have to be replaced with the 73 and earlier style,
available as a replacement Body panel (Bumper Bracket retainer , or
Inner Wing as some call it) . Once this rust repair/replacement panel
is welded and fit into the original location/place, the 73 fenders
will fit on. The flat style bumper brackets will now be able to bolt
into place on the body. For the question about the late style bumpers
fitting early flat brackets, I'm not exactly sure if the curve is
the same. You may have to put some spacers in between the bumper and
the bracket in order to get the bumper to fit right. You will have
to drill an extra hole or two in each bumper under the impact strip
so that the holes from the bracket will match that of the bumper.
I would recommend using the earlier style bumper for ease of installation,
but I'm not ruling out that the late style won't work. Hope the info
helps out. John Spironello - John's Bug Shop"
I hope John answered all your questions,
I have just
read the section on storing Your VW for the winter. Well, I'm just
glad that we don't have any winters as bad as you have in Northern
America. Winter is the best season to drive our air cooled Volkswagens,
as the heaters work great, and normally we don't have any ice on the
road and salt isn't applied to our roads (only to our fish & fries).
I realize that we are lucky that we can drive our VWs 52 weeks a year
without any problems. If anything, we would store our VWs in the summer
as air conditioning is a must in our very hot summers. I plan on adding
an air conditioner to my '68 Autobug in the near future. Air Conditioned
air cooled Volkswagens are VERY rare here in Australia as it wasn't
an option from Volkswagen of Australia.
Thanks for a great site which I frequent very often....
Scone NSW Australia
Actually, air conditioning is pretty rare
in North America too, even though it was only a couple of hundred
dollars for the option back in the day. People believed that the AC
would under power the Beetle that was already considered slow by American
car standards. In the northern US and most of Canada we have to store
our Beetles (unless you want it eaten up by rust) from November to
April every year. That is why we try to make the most of the short
season we have.
The article by Rick Higgens on body removal was a great help. But
I thought it might be worth while to point out one problem I had.
After disconnecting all of the wires, hoses, bolts, tie rod ends etc.
on my '73 Super Beetle, I hoisted the front end off the ground. To
my surprise, the chassis came up as well. The trouble was a dealer-installed
air conditioning system at the very front of the car that was bolted
to both the body and the front headframe. I'd suggest that anyone
with a louvered front skirt check for a/c connections before lifting
the body. They're pretty well hidden. Thanks.
Thanks for that tip Andy. We're going to
add it to the Body Removal article in the Tech Talk with Rick section.
Just wanted to let you know I stumbled on your web site the other
day and think it is great. I was just starting to replace my floor
pans and found your article on Floor Pan replacement. This was the
best information I have found on pan replacement. It was easy to understand,
and the photo's were very helpful. I'm pretty competent at all of
the mechanical work on the car, but was a little nervous about tackling
the pans. After reading your article it was a piece of cake.
Thanks for a great web site,
pages that you are referring to were written by Rick Higgens from
Bug Me Video. Rick has a set of videos that cover just about any repair
you can think of on a Beetle. I'm glad they were of help to you and
you can learn more about Rick and his videos at his web site www.bugmevideo.com
Good luck with your car!
I am in possession (2nd owner) of a 1976 Bicentennial Edition VW convertible.
I was told only one car of this type was made available per VW dealer
throughout the USA. Furthermore, since my car was delivered to an
Arizona dealer and originally owned by a famous businessman (Richard
Gaylord: Inventor of the first retractable hardtop and originator
of the 1952 Gaylord automobile.) It came with a rare 'Southwestern'
interior design. I have yet to hear about another with this interior
option in existence today. The car has less than 15,000 original miles
and came fully loaded...A/C, 8-Track, full body trim, etc... It is
in very good (near mint) original condition but unfortunately has
had a few minor modifications such as CB, multiple gauges. The original
owner added just about every gauge he could get his hands onto because
he was an engineer and had a fascination with same. As a matter of
fact, the 52 Gaylord car also came with a multitude of gauges along
the same lines. All are VDO.
I am trying to gather more information about my car so I have a better
idea of it's value and rarity. Can you help in any way?
Kind Regards, Ron
I have never heard of a special edition Beetle with a name like that
before. I've done some checking (at SE Beetles) and no one seems to
have heard of it either. It could be model that was put together at
the dealer level, with the dealership doing the customizing in house.
There is no doubt that your Beetle is a rarity, and the fact that
it only has 15,000 miles with you being the 2nd owner doesn't hurt
As for the dash I'd try to get it back to original condition be removing
all those gauges, You still can purchase most parts for the Super
Beetle convertible. The vehicle would be worth much more if it was
in original stock condition.
upon your pages yesterday. I was looking for a 'cheapish' electronic
ignition for a carburated 1600cc engine with a vacuum advance distributor.
The old Hoover Sermons mentioned a couple models of ignition that
could be put in place without removing the original system. The
original could then be utilized in case of a failure in the electronic
unit. Do you have any good experience with these products?
This Beetle is a convertible that I drive 50 days a year. I keep
struggling with priorities for the budget I allow myself on the
car. Do I add disk brakes so it stops easier? Do I add a header
and new ignition system so it runs better? Do I replace the sport
wheels and worn bumpers with new chrome so it looks better? I don't
intend to build a show car. I just want something fun and reliable
(or at least predictable). Thanks for any information you can offer
You really are doing a great job with the web site.
As far as the electronic ignition goes I installed the Pertronix
system in my Super and have had no problems at all (you can read
about it in the Reviews section of the site). You do have to remove
the points to make the system work, but you can put them back in
a few minutes if needed. I know there are other units on the market
such as Compufire, but I can only speak from my personal experience.
Remember cheaper doesn't always equal better.
Disc brakes would defiantly make the car safer and stop faster.
Before installing front discs you might want to make sure that your
brake system is in tiptop shape. Check the master cylinder, wheel
cylinders for any leaks and make sure that the shoes are all adjusted
properly. Try the brakes again and then you can make the decision
to spend the money there or on another area. If you do decide to
go with disc brakes, Topline Parts makes an excellent setup that
isn't too expensive.
Concerning the sport wheels and bumpers these items are purely cosmetic
and of course will not affect the way your car runs. Since you have
the factory steel sport wheels you could always sand and paint them
yourself to save money or have them sandblasted and repainted by
a good body shop. New stock rims start from $44.95 each (www.cip1.com)
or you could always put on a nice set of chrome stock wheels and
covers like I did on my car. There are inexpensive bumpers that
start from $29.95 each (also available from CIP1.com) or you could
re-chrome yours locally. Your Beetle isn't getting any younger,
and by keeping it in good shape it will serve you better and retain
its value for years to come.
Great site! I'd like to ship a 1600cc Type1 engine cross country and
would like to crate it. I am planning a 3X3X3 foot crate and ~250
lbs. The crate can be bigger than the engine, but obviously not smaller.
The weight is just an estimate as it will be placed on a skid and
it will be weighed prior to shipping. I was looking to bring a knock
down crate with me from Massachusetts and assemble it on site in California.
the answer to your question we got in touch with our friends at
Rocky Mountain Motorworks. Jerry Stocking took some time from his
busy day to answer us. Here's what he wrote:
"It sounds like he is wanting to ship a complete engine with
fan shroud, muffler and tin. Unfortunately I don't have a turnkey
sitting here or at home, to measure for him. The long block we sell
weights, on a pallet, about 150lbs. The 150lbs relates to a long
block strapped down to a cut down pallet. Doing it this way reduces
the weight and dimensions and reduces the cost of shipping. Unfortunately,
no matter if you crate it up completely, as he is suggesting or
just strap it to a pallet freight companies will still manage to
smack them up sometimes. With it just strapped to a pallet at least
they can't stack something on top of it."
Rocky Mountain Motorworks
this helps with the shipping of your engine. Drop us a line when
you get it back to Massachusetts and let us know how it went.
Would a steering wheel from a '64 convertible beetle fit a '73 Super
Beetle? I'm new to this passion and could sure use your help.
Thanks in advance..
Corner Brook , Newfoundland
Sorry to tell you Kenny, but it won't fit.
The 60-70 Beetle uses a 20mm shaft, the 71-73 a 21mm and the 74-79
a 17mm, so you would have to use one from 71-73 year range. You
could always buy a sport wheel and get the proper adapter for it.
That would totally open up a world of possibilities if your Beetle
is customized. Try California
Import Parts for an excellent selection of racing wheels and
adapters, search "steering wheel" at their site.
I'm a 13-year
old boy (will be 14 by August) from the Philippines. I'm a loyal Volkswagen
enthusiast and because of that I was given a chance to be a member
of Volkswagen Club of the Philippines. My dream Volkswagen is a 1973
Beetle, but I have some problems about dreaming it...
1. I can't
choose between a Super Beetle 1303 or Standard Beetle! 2. I can't
determine what is the best stock (year-correct factory) paint job
for it! 3. I can't determine if 2 1/4" whitewall 560-15 stock
tires look good on it's stock wheels! 4. I can't determine if a vintage
Beetle roof rack look good on it! I hope you could help me with this
problems of mine! Please give me recommendations so it can be solved!
PS A private
party imports brand-new air-cooled Mexican Beetles here in the Philippines
and sells them for Php 698,000 or approximately $13,000US. From July
2002 to February 2003, they were able to sell 25 units. It comes with
air conditioning and security alarm as standard equipment.
great to hear from such a young Volkswagen enthusiast with such a
heart felt love for the Beetle. Buying your first Beetle is a hard
decision and a subjective one. Either a 1303 or standard Beetle will
serve you well. The Super Beetle does have more storage room and better
suspension than the standard. 1973 is the first year for the curved
windshield and full dash and some people do not like that style, it's
a matter of your own taste. You should have to look at the 1302/1303
Super Beetle and standard Beetle and see what appeals to you. The
next decision is whether you want to go stock or custom with your
Beetle. If you go stock, do you want to go 100% stock? In which case
you should check to see if that Beetle came with whitewall tires.
If you want the stock look when repainting you should either stick
with the original colour or another from the same year. It's actually
harder in some cases to keep a Beetle stock because you might not
be able to find all the original pieces to put it back to original
condition. As far as the luggage rack goes I think they look pretty
cool on a stock or custom Beetle.
some time and look through our Gallery and Spotlight sections, after
a while you'll get and idea of what appeals to you. You might even
want to mix a bit of the custom look with the stock items. Whatever
you decide you're going to love owning one. Who says you won't get
another in time and do that one up in a totally different style, it's
Thanks for a good advice on the tech pages. I've read your site two
times it's so good!
Thank you for your kind words Skip. I myself
have to thank Rick Higgens from Bug Me Video and Jeff Hamilton from
ReVolks for all their hard work. Every month these two Volkswagen
enthusiasts come up with a different topic and photos that you see
in these two informative sections. Our idea at the site is to build
an archive of tech articles that air-cooled VW owners can access to
help work on their cars.
I have just
been reading this months pages from You ,and I was very impressed.
I noticed the 1965 beetle You were working on had a push button rear
deck lid lock.... My Son has one of these hanging in His shed, even
though they were never fitted to Australian Beetles. VW Australasia
made the 1964 Beetle until late 1967 with no changes excepting the
1300 engine replacing the 40 HP 1200 engine. We received the Large
Glass, Vertical Headlamps 12 volts etc. in 1968... No rare 1967 Beetles
here... When I first saw the 1967 Beetle diecast model (authorized
by VW AG) about 8-10 years ago... I thought... they have it ALL wrong...
Large Glass - Vertical Headlamps with horn grills, early bumpers with
flat hubcaps and slotted wheels.... until many years later after -
where I read about the rare One Year only model Beetle... and then
the 1966 & 1965 models... which We NEVER Had. We never had the
type 1 Karmann Cabriolet or the Karmann Ghia Cabriolet, in fact We
only had the Karmann Ghia coupe until around 1960...
One thing We did have though, was Unique Tail lamps in late 1960-1961
with the top half being amber and the lower half being red... in 1962
the normal tail lamps (mounted higher) were introduced with the towel
rail bumpers. I do have a photo of the tail lamps if You would like
a look. They are NLA although they were made by Hella in Germany and
they were roughly 2" smaller than the 1962 tail lamps.. All restored
1960-61 cars now have the later tail lamps as on the 1965 You were
working on. I am restoring a 1968 stick shift Beetle, which hopefully
will be finished within the next 4 months. The 1303S curved windscreen
Beetle was called the "L" Beetle in Australia and had a
"Volkswagen L" badge on the deck lid. The 1302S Super Beetle
was called the Super Bug in Australia.
Lee Noonan 68AutoBug
I have worked on the beetles since 1962 and have been around them
since 1955 as my step father worked at the first VW dealership in
Indiana. Nonetheless I continue to see and hear of things like you
are mentioning. Things I never knew existed. The VW has such a vast
history. Guess that is just another one of the things that keeps the
interest in them alive. I would like to see a picture of those tail
lights you describe. I am adding your letter to my VW files. I would
like someday to do a video on all or at least as many of the changes
as I can. I think it would not only be interesting but a great aid
to the restorers. Besides it would be fun to shoot.
That company that made that die cast 67 beetle used a good friend
of mines perfect 67 bug as it's model. He has the first die cast model
that was made. He had the largest VW restoration operation ever. He
had 80 employees working 2 shifts. He turned out thousands of bugs
until the stock market crashed on "black Monday". He was
forced to close down. You will be seeing more about him and his part
in VW history soon.
Thanks for interest and the info.
Rick Higgins, SuperBeetles.Com, Bug Me Video
I would like to tell you how much I like your site you have. I go
there often, and is one of my favorite VW sites. I enjoy the trivia
very much and want to know if you are going to be putting more games
up soon for the trivia with more questions? You do a excellent job
on the site...it looks awesome.
Thanks for your kind words Jordan. I'm always
looking for new questions and answers that will make up the next Online
Trivia game. If anyone has some that they would like to contribute
please send them my way. As for the next edition of trivia, subscribe
to our FREE monthly news letter you'll be one of the first to know.
I have developed
a frustrating problem recently on my 1971 Super Beetle. I do not get
a half mile from my garage until the Bug is sputtering and dies, just
like it has run out of fuel. I checked the" see through"
fuel filter and it is empty. I have replaced the fuel pump, it did
not fix the problem. I have replaced the fuel lines, this did not
fix the problem. I used 1/4 inch flexible copper tubing. I have a
single 1/4 inch line venting the gas tank. I check the fuel filter
when the engine stops and it is empty, after about 1/2 hour the car
will restart and run for the same short period. What is stopping my
fuel from flowing? This has become very frustrating.
Here's some advice from Jeff Hamilton.
probably have dirty gas tank or clogged fuel "sock" at the
bottom of the tank. This same thing happened to me when I was a younger
guy living at home with my folks. I would startup my beetle and I'd
always get to the DVP south bound ramp and the engine would die -
exact same phenomenon - wait, then it'd run fine for a few kms and
then die again..... I finally got sick of this performance and asked
my Dad to take the bug into work (he was a mechanic) and he found
the fuel tank had about 1" of "garbage" collected at
the bottom of the tank by the fuel sock. The "garbage" choked-off
the fuel sock. He removed the tank for me after siphoning off the
gas and then simply washed the inside out with water (fuel tank upside
down) and dried it again with compressed air. After this operation
it ran great for the rest of the years I owned and drove it in Scarberia
you've replaced the fuel lines, filter and pump, it's the most likely
thing. It would also be possible that there's sufficient rusting inside
original metal line to be blocking it off but he said he replaced
that too with copper line..... On all of my Vdubs, I run a "see
immediately after the fuel tank/before the hard-line through the tunnel
and then a secondary fuel filter between the rear hard-line and the
flex line before the fuel pump, this way I can keep the tunnel-section
of hard-line clean (the first filter will catch the debris) plus it's
easy to see how much trash is coming out of the tank and how frequently
it would otherwise choke-up my fuel pump (I always run electric fuel
Jeff-reVolks.com & SuperBeetles.Com
Something special is going to take place with our beloved Sedan.
In fact, we are planning to do a special web site for the Beetle,
which should be ready in a few months. So far, we are planning
to include a concise history of the Käfer around the world
and in México (the site is going to be available in German,
English and Spanish). As of now the project is still at the blueprint
Another insight is that we are constructing a nice, special edition
Käfer. As soon as we get some official photographs and the
permission to distribute them, you will be one of the first to
Oscar Octavio Osorio Cortés
VOLKSWAGEN de México
-It's interesting the VWM will put up
a web site about the air-cooled Beetle. I'm anxious to see how
it will be represented and what else will be included in the new
site. I look forward to the pictures of the new "Special
edition Käfer" that you are taking about and will post
them at the web site for all to see. Unfortunately we in North
America cannot import a brand new air-cooled Mexican Beetle into
the country, but we can always dream about it...
My name is Nick and I am a 16 year old high school student with
a 73 Super Beetle which I am trying to restore and customize (Who
says the hobby is dying?). I saved up and bought the Pertronix ignition
kit 1847a for the Bosch 009 distributor, it worked flawlessly (however
mine took longer to start) but the acceleration and gas mileage
was great. About two weeks later I also purchased the 40,000 volt
coil and wires to complete my system. The next day as I was cruising
when the car began to only idle when I would punch the gas it would
hesitate and die. I limped to a friend's house and went inside (it
had done this once before and it went away after sitting for ten
minutes) when I came out it would not start. I repeatedly tried
to start it and occasionally at it's own whim it would sputter.
I took it to my preferred VW shop and we put a spark tester (an
in-line test light which plugs into the distributor on one end and
the wire into the other. We found the Pertronix kit was going on
and off. I tested the connections everywhere, and they were all
good, so I promptly refitted the points and it has run flawlessly
since. The Pertronix has a three year warranty, so I called Pertronix
and they want me to send the entire kit to them so they can look
at it, why can't my dealer replace it? Now I have to send them this
box, and spend my gas money on shipping. If they have the warranty
they should have a local dealer who can replace it, or at least
pay the shipping. If you have any contact with the company other
than customer opinion try to bring up this matter.
of all did you check the support page at the Pertronix site? I work
in the automotive industry and I understand what you are talking
about. Unfortunately your dealer probably doesn't have the authority
from Pertronix to replace the kit for you. Looking at it from the
manufactures point of view they want to make sure that the unit
is defective and wasn't misdiagnosed by the VW shop before sending
you out a replacement. You and the shop could be correct but they
are going to need the old one back for warranty anyway so you might
as well send it to them. It's really up to the shop that sold it
to you to ask Pertronix to replace it if it is indeed faulty. Then
you wouldn't have to wait or be out of pocket for the shipping expense.
On the other hand I have the entire system in my car and I haven't
had a problem with it although sometimes even the best products
can fail. I'm going to forward your letter to Pertronix, please
keep me posted.
Thank you for taking the time to respond and forward my e-mail to
Pertronix. Rocky Scherer has e-mailed me as well and he wants to
make sure that they have 5 star service rating from me. I have replied
to him about checking the ground to my case and checking the coil.
I would really like to see this come out well, and I think it will.
Rocky is trying very hard and I appreciate his effort. Thank you
for helping me out. You have a really great and promising site here,
keep up the good work.
in mind that fixing a problem by Email is like calling your doctor
over the phone because you've got an ache somewhere, it isn't always
easy with the car here and Pertronix over there. But I know Rocky
from Pertronix and he's a great guy. Believe me, he will get the
problem sorted out for you one way or another. Good luck!
About two or three weeks
ago I emailed you about Pertronix ignitor problem. I am happy to
report that I have sent the module to Pertronix, and we have diagnosed
the problem. It's now on the way back to me with a free T-shirt!
I would just like to thank you for helping me out throughout this
process. One more thing I was browsing through your TechTalk section
and I noticed the heading for valve adjustment reads "valUe"
adjustment, I have looked through there a million times and never
noticed. The site has really come a long way, I used to look here
back when you had the chrome VW logo for a header, keep up the good
I knew that Rocky at Pertronix would get
you sorted out. The failure rate for any new part is very low but
it can happen. Bottom line is you're back on the road with a new
tshirt. And thank you for pointing out my typo in the Tech Talk
section, I was just checking to see if anyone was paying attention
I need some personal
help. I am big, big, big, big Beetle fan. When I was 8 years old
I worked on my 1st Beetle and ever since then I have loved them.
I know they are slower than most cars and my friends and I are going
to start driving soon so as you might of guessed I have a Beetle
waiting for me at the back of my house. What I want to know is if
you can tell me some things about Beetles that make them better
than other cars. I want to show my friends how my Beetle is better
than their Fords, Hondas, etc.
only thing I can say is to drive your Beetle because YOU love it
and don't worry about what all the other people have to say. Hondas
and other cars may be faster but I guaranty that your Beetle will
get more attention where ever you go. You don't have to be one of
the thousands of followers that all drive the same type of car,
you are an individual that makes his own style, rock on! PS. Who
says a Beetle is slower?
I wanted to drop you a note commending you for the terrific site!
I recently picked up a 1972 canary yellow Super off of eBay from a
gentlemen in Ann Arbor, MI. So far, yours has been the most informative
and extensive site I've found on Supers. I was a little distressed
about reading your bit on the rarity of 1302 hoods; my Super (AKA
"Louis") was struck by an out-of-control motorist last week,
pushing in the front bumper and denting the nose of the hood. (All
of this while he was parked on a quiet side street in front of my
work-- talk about bad luck!)
Jefferson City, MO
can tell that you've been reading the "My Dairy" section
of the site. If you read a little further you'd see that I did manage
to locate a brand new hood from a VW dealer here in Toronto, but it
was a bit pricey. Replacing the hood should depend on just how badly
bent it is. You might be able
to repair the hood and keep your car all original at a good body shop.
After I bought the hood for my Super I got all kinds of offers of
good used ones. You could try a locate scrap yard or go to AllAirCooled.Com
and search for one in your area, good luck!
I wonder if you or any of your readers can help me out with some
advice if you can. I own an 1972 1303 super beetle over here in
the UK. I was looking at fitting an Mocal aero 400 filler cap to
the front quarter panel, in place of the original filler flap. Can
I use an aero cap installation kit from another car e.g. Audi,BMW,Honda,VW
Golf, where a blanking panel is glued into place where the original
fuel filler goes, with the appropriate body curve to suit the bugs
body line. Or will I have to manipulate the Wolfsberg metal another
way. I would like to hear from anyone that might have done this
modification to put me in the right direction with materials used
etc. This is the final modification to my vehicle which currently
has an early Porsche 901 5 speed box, with an 2.4L 914 motor with
an 911 alternator cooling. I look forward to any advice or help
you can give me,
-I wish I could help you but I tend to
stick to the stock look myself. You might try posting this question
in the Forum or to our Yahoo VW group. Both of these resources are
free and have hundreds of VW fanatics that I'm sure would love to
help. If anyone reading this can help Vince please email him at
Here are a couple of pictures of my new project which is almost
ready 2 roll. It's a '54 oval on a '75 1300S chassis. 1800cc engine,
long gearbox, disc-brakes, Porsche cooling; Porsche seats, Porsche
wheels (17 '' ). The exhaust system on the picture has already made
place for an ahendorp from BAS. I am now looking for a decent roll-cage.
On the Belgian roads next year.
-In Europe the "S" in 1300s denotes that chassis that
this car is built on is a Super Beetle. This car is part of the
style of Beetle customizing called the "German Look",
and it's awesome! This style of car is based on the Super Beetle
with Porsche wheels, brakes, colours and engine. Please keep us
posted on your progress as we'd love to do a feature on your car
How are ya...i was just browsing the web as I always do...in search
of some nice VW tech articles and came to your page...It is definitely
a GREAT help, and GREATLY appreciated...so on behalf of all VW junkies..."thanks
Steve from Jersey
-First of all, thank you for all your kind
words. Our tech sections are coming along nicely with new articles
added on a monthly basis. We're hoping that over time we can built
an archive with all sorts of useful information for all the "VW
junkies" out there.
onto the site after test driving my first Super Beetle in over twenty
years, may even buy it. The heater channel story was great. It's amazing
how many things can have a huge impact on future restoration time
and money. I look forward to picking up a 71 soon (to replace the
one I unceremoniously traded away in 1976) Great site, keep up the
that has every looked into restoring a Beetle knows just how bad heater
channel rot can be. After reading Jeff's article it helps you to realize
that rusty heater channels are not always a terminal illness for a
Beetle. Good luck on your future purchase, a 1971 Super Beetle is
always a good bet!
Hi, I just
wanted to let you know what a great web site you guys run. I love
to browse through it all the time and especially like the "Tech
Talk With Rick" section - it helps a complete novice like me.
I get excited when I get my monthly newsletter email. I love the fact
that the site is free and hope it stays that way! I just wanted to
drop you a line to let you know that your efforts and hard work are
greatly appreciated. Keep up the good work!!
Peter! I'm glad you like the "Tech Talk with Rick" section
and I would like to thank Rick Higgens from "Bug Me Video"
for taking the time to put that page together every month. Running
this site is a lot of work but our love of the air-cooled VW and comments
from people like you make it all worth while.
your Stories, Rants,
Comments or "How-to"
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