|Grease will feel more
slippery than brake fluid. In this case the drum will have to be removed
and either the seal or wheel cylinder replaced as well as the shoes.
If there are no leaks then spin the wheels one at a time as someone
touches the brake to see if one is not stopping. You may find one
that will hardly turn before you touch the brake. While the wheel
might free up if you loosen the adjustment it will likely tighten
up again when you use the brake again. The most common problem here
is that the rubber brake line has swollen shut or nearly so inside
and is restricting the fluid both going to the brake and returning
|You may be able to determine
this by opening the bleeder. If the wheel frees up the problem is
the hose. If it does not free up then the problem is with the wheel
cylinder sticking. The wheel cylinder can be replaced after the brake
drum and brake shoes have been removed.
|It is held the backing
plate by one bolt on the rear.
|The hose can be replaced
by loosening either one or both of the metal lines that connect to
it. The hose is held in place by a U shaped clip that just pries loose.
|On the front the hose
is threaded to the back of the wheel cylinder.
|The other end has to be
loose so the hose can be screwed out on removal and in when replaced.
Whether the wheel cylinder or hose is replaced the brakes on that
wheel will have to be bled.
|As a word of advice if
one hose is swollen it probably means the rest are close and the same
is true of a sticking wheel cylinder. So when you replace one you
may as well plan to replace them all. Everything you need to do these
jobs or a complete brake job can be seen on our Vol.4 Brake Maintenance
video. Hopefully this will help keep you going on the straight and
narrow. We're pulling for you!