|The stock type one motor
only has a wire mesh strainer as a filter. I suggest cleaning it
with every oil change. To begin you will likely want to raise the
rear of the car for easier access to the six 10 mm nuts that hold
the strainer to the bottom of the motor. Removing it will allow
the oil to drain. You will need a drain pan. I like the ones that
can be closed back and later taken to the disposal station.
|With the pan under the
strainer plate start by removing the nut farthest away from you
and work your way around to your side. That way you are not reaching
through the oil as it starts to drain out around the edges.
|When it begins to flow
let it drain and then finish removing it.
|With the plate off you
can usually remove the strainer by catching it by the inside edge
with your fingers and then working it out. If it seems to stick
you can gently pry it away from the case with a flat screwdriver.
|Both the strainer and
the plate can then be cleaned in a small pan of mineral spirits
and rinsed in water and then allowed to dry. You may want to level
the car to be sure all the oil has drained.
|You will need two new
strainer gaskets when it is time to put it back. One on each side.
Be sure all the old gasket is cleaned off the block and the strainer
plate of course. The gaskets can sometimes be purchased as a kit
that also includes some little copper washer that go around each
6 mm stud when the bottom plate is bolted on. This helps to seal
the nut against the bottom of the plate. If you don't have these
small flat washer will work. The original 10 mm outside nuts that
hold the strainer were acorn nuts that bottom out against the stud.
These have more threads and are less likely to strip. Another thing
to be aware of is that if the strainer has been over tightened it
will be dimpled around the holes and will not lie flat. This can
often be fixed by peening them back down and smoothing with a file.
A little time spent here could correct a pesky oil leak later. Using
the copper crush washers or flat washers will spread the pressure
out and make this less likely.
|When tightening the
nuts be careful to not over tighten. This is where most novice make
their mistake and dimple the plate or break or strip these little
studs. Just snug them up and tighten a teensy more later if they
want to leak. I use a 1/4 drive ratchet and hold it close to the
center. Fortunately if you do break a stud or strip one (you might
want to have a couple on hand) they usually can be unscrewed from
the block with a pair of vise grips. With the strainer back on all
that is left is pouring about 2 3/4 quarts of your chosen oil back
|Check the cork gasket
in the filler cap and replace it before it falls apart and drops
down into the filler neck. Now would be a good time to clean the
air cleaner, oil the door hinges, check the brake fluid level, air
up the tires and whatever other things that you might not get around
to any other time. OK, now let the car down and write the mileage
and date on something you can keep in the glove box and take her
for a spin!! You can see this done in detail in our Vol.1 General
Maintenance video available from Bug Me Video.